A Review of the Godbole FlatLay A5 Notebook Cover

PRELUDE

In search of a suitable notebook cover

My fondness for smooth, writing-friendly paper predates my understanding of what paper quality even meant. Back then, there were notebooks capable of robbing a ballpoint pen’s tungsten-carbide ball of its spherical structure - let alone being safe for fountain pens. During my school years, there existed a premium category of Oxford Exercise Notebooks (from a Kolkata-based company), ruled with blurple lines - ink that promises blue but renders purple. These days, blurples are exactly the kind of inks I avoid.

         Later came the acquired appreciation for fountain pen friendly paper, along with the fascination of seeing ink reveal its inherent shading and character. Like many others, I settled on the A5 format as the ideal everyday-carry notebook size, though I still prefer the broader B5 dimensions for desk writing.

         Years ago, I used to get MD notebooks from Japan - back when the prices were still sane. Both the MD and Life notebooks fit nicely inside Midori’s A5 transparent plastic cover. But over time, I wanted something more permanent for softcover notebooks, which inevitably led me toward that well-known island of infinite craving: the internet, now fortified with AI-powered searches that seem to understand my purchasing habits better than I do.

I had three conditions:

• I wanted something durable. Full-grain leather was preferable, though I wouldn’t object to good top-grain leather either. Personally, I feel PU “vegan” leather is among the worst things to happen in the name of sustainability - an endless cycle of replacement disguised as an environmental virtue.
• The cover needed to lie flat on a desk and comfortably accommodate a 100 sheet notebook.
• I did not want excessive pockets, organizers, or pen loops. Too many compartments defeat the purpose of a minimalist notebook cover. I can already carry my phone and pen in my pockets; I don’t need my notebook cover moonlighting as a wallet.

Here were some of the expensive, occasionally absurd options I considered:

• Galen A5 Leather Cover - $54 + shipping
• MD A5 Goat Leather Cover - $128 + shipping (at that price you could probably buy an entire goat here)
• Superior Labor A5 Leather Notebook Cover - $170 + shipping (absolutely not)
• Lapis Bard A5 Leather Jacket - Cognac - $49 (actually very reasonable for the quality)

             At the time I was in the US, so naturally my search results leaned toward the most expensive possibilities available. Eventually I refined my search to products available locally in India, and that is how I came across a company called Godbole Gear. 

           For those wondering, Godbole is a Marathi surname. From their website I learned that Juhi Salinkar and Gaurav Godbole - both engineers by education and previous profession - decided to pursue leathercraft full-time after relocating back to India. Kudos to them. Someday, perhaps. Among their offerings were the A5 and A6 FlatLay notebook covers under the Special Edition section.

A LITTLE BACKGROUND

The myriad permutations of leather-craft

Godbole Gear emphasizes the use of saddle stitching: famously associated with Hermès, where every stitch is locked independently using two needles. The advantage is simple: even if one stitch fails, the rest do not unravel.

What interested me more, however, was Gaurav’s story behind designing the FlatLay cover. It echoed exactly the sort of frustrations I had with with some notebook covers and aligned closely with what I had been searching for.

The company also highlights its use of full-grain leather across its products. If you’ve never ventured into the intricate world of leather grades and finishes, here's the condensed version:

1. Full Grain: The highest quality. A cut of leather consisting of the outer layer of hide, left unsanded and unbuffed to retain its natural imperfections. It has a strong and durable surface.
2. Top Grain: The top layer is sanded to remove imperfections, which reduces some of the strength and water-repellent qualities of full grain leather. It is commonly used in handbags, wallets, and shoes.
3. Corrected: A broader term often referred to as genuine leather. It can be any layer of hide that has been treated to create a uniform surface. Commonly used in belts, wallets, bags, gloves, and shoes.
4. Split Grain: A layer cut from the lower levels of top grain leather. It is not as dense, tight, or durable as full grain or top grain leather.
5. Reconstituted & Recycled: Leather scraps are bonded together using polyurethane or latex. 

Here are a list of leather finishes:

1. Aniline: Dyes allow natural surface of leather to show through. 
2. Semi-Aniline: Similar to aniline but with added pigments.
3. Faux: Also known as PU, Vegan or Vinyl leather. Is made of polyurethane and made to mimic real leather.
4. There are many more types (12+), but they may not be relevant to our search for pen cases and sleeves.

        Leather tanning is the process of treating hides to clean them of dirt, blood, and hair. This process alters the protein structure of the hide to make the leather durable and less susceptible to decomposition. 

1. Vegetable tanning: This method uses natural materials or tannins derived from plants and bark, which are astringents. It’s an ancient, environmentally friendly process.
2. Chromium tanning: Chromium sulfate is used for a faster and cheaper tanning process, offering more color options than vegetable tanning. The hair and flesh are removed before the tanning process.

There are, of course, many more variations, though those are less relevant to notebook covers and pen accessories.

I’ve also had good experiences with top-grain leather products from Khyati’s company, The Black Canvas, based in Mumbai. Good top-grain leather, when properly cared for, lasts remarkably well too. Some of my luggage tags from The Black Canvas have survived years of long-haul flight abuse without complaint. 

Although the fit and finish of Godbole Gear can surpass many established international brands.

DESIGN

Minimalistically simple

The FlatLay cover is available in four primary colours - Mahogany, Chestnut, Black, and Racing Green; along with several thread options including red, white, black, chestnut, and dark brown. All of them look subtly stunning.

             I ordered the Racing Green A5 version with red stitching and monogramming simply because it looked different with a sense of subtlety. After placing the order, I received a confirmation email along with an estimated wait time of roughly 3-4 weeks. By the time I had recovered from jet lag, the cover had arrived.

The packaging was minimal: a simple craft-paper sleeve accompanied by a handwritten note from Juhi and Gaurav. It was thoughtfully done, although I sincerely hope one of them eventually falls into the fountain pen universe. If you’re making objects this beautiful for writers, you deserve equally good writing instruments.

The first thing I noticed upon unwrapping the cover was the stitching. The seams are elegant, precise, and remarkable. My monogram, blurred in the photographs was subtly embossed in a nice typeface.

Two external pen loops help secure the notebook closed. They comfortably accommodate slimmer pens up to roughly the diameter of a Lamy 2000 multipen (~12.6 mm). A standard Lamy 2000 fountain pen is too thick, while a Parker 51 fits comfortably.

           Personally, I would rather subject a Rotring 800 or Rapid Pro to the tension of holding the flaps shut than risk stressing one of my fountain pens, but that decision ultimately depends on your tolerance for mechanical anxiety.

              As you open the cover, you will notice that the beautiful stitching runs consistently across both the front and back. True to its branding, the cover lays perfectly flat on a table. There are two large slip pockets designed to hold a notebook, along with cards and other small items. The bottom of the right slip pocket carries the subtle “Godbole Handmade Leather Gear, Estd. 2014” imprint. You can use the right pocket to secure your notebook, while the left pocket is ideal for storing thin journalling essentials such as stickers, cards or bookmarks.

MATERIAL

The cover uses full-grain, vegetable-tanned aniline buffalo calf leather with a thickness ranging from roughly 1.2 mm internally to 2.4 mm externally, as per the website. This gives the cover structure and rigidity without resorting to cardboard fillers. It certainly appears durable, though only long-term use can validate that claim. Based on my experience with Midori leather covers and other full-grain leather accessories, however, I have little doubt about its durability.

       Truthfully, even a good top-grain leather product can last decades with occasional maintenance - with beeswax and exposure to sun rather than being kept inside dark drawers. Like all natural leather products, mold can become an issue if stored in dark and humid environments. However it’s easy to clean and moisturise them with a little beeswax.

FIT & FEEL

The leather retains visible grain patterns and feels smooth without becoming slippery. There is a certain warmth and familiarity to leather that synthetic materials still struggle to replicate. The cover is approximately 10% larger than a standard A5 notebook and comfortably accommodates notebooks up to roughly 18 mm thick. I currently use it with a thick Muji A5 ruled notebook swollen with photographs and paper cut-outs carrying some emotional value.

The A5 notebook fits snugly into the right slip pocket. Dimensionally, the cover measures around 165 mm × 230 mm and works well with standard A5 notebooks (150 mm × 210 mm). However, wider notebooks like Clairefontaine’s French-ruled notebooks (165mm x 210 mm) do not fit.

Here is the cover compared alongside my 10-year old Midori Traveler’s Notebook in passport size.

Here is the cover compared alongside my 11-year old Midori Traveler’s Notebook in standard size (130mm x 210mm).

FINAL COMMENTS

After several years of using notebook systems ranging from Midori Traveler’s Notebooks to simple plastic covers, I have realised that sometimes we need a touch of luxury to appreciate the emotional value that these notebooks carry for us.

            I prefer notebook covers that disappear into use rather than constantly demanding attention through excessive organization features or over-designed interiors. The FlatLay succeeds precisely because it isn’t over-designed It keeps the notebook flat, feels reassuringly comfortable to use and is beautifully handcrafted. The cover never tries to appear luxurious, it simply is. If I were to suggest a single change, I would love to see an option without the external pen loops, perhaps paired with a different closure system.

You can find my other pen and paraphernalia reviews here. 

REFERENCES

• Godbole FlatLay Cover Launch

• Leather grade and finishes

• A bookish review of Midori Traveler’s Notebook

• Midori Traveler’s Notebook (Passport) Review

• A utilitarian review of a few pen cases

A Visconti Homo Sapiens, Disassembled: Lessons from a Repair

PRELUDE

A decade later, when one of my long-serving Homo Sapiens fell slightly behind humans in evolution.

Few pens inspire the kind of quiet admiration that the Visconti Homo Sapiens does. The familiar warmth of its basaltic lava body, the hook-safe capping mechanism, and its distinct presence in the hand; these have long made it one of the most characterful writing instruments in my modest collection.

       

    I wrote about my experiences with the Bronze Maxi and the Florentine Hills LE almost a decade ago, when they were relatively new and full of promise. A decade on, time has added not just patina, but also perspective, particularly on the realities of maintenance.

And, as it turns out, even the Homo Sapiens is not entirely immune to the occasional evolutionary setback.

THE BLACK SWAN EVENT

Activated by my cleaning ritual

Every few months, I try to keep my personal flagship fountain pens within a five-pen rotation. Two of them travel in a Brown Bear two-pen pouch. One is reserved for captions, fitted with a stub or equivalent grind: for example, a Pelikan m205 Duo Highlighter, an m200 with an italic nib, or a Schon Monoc with a reverse broad grind. The other is typically a snap-cap pen for quick note-taking: the Sheaffer Legacy 2026 at the moment (though it could just as easily be my Lamy 2000 or Pilot VP Fermo).

           The other three are for pure writing joy, at least as far as nibs are concerned. They reside in a Visconti Dreamtouch three-pen case. These three are not necessarily brand flagships. The only pen that remains permanently inked in this trio is a Conid Kingsize Demonstrator with a titanium fine nib, the Ti nib is a 2025 purchase from Conid. With its factory 14k fine nib (bought seven years ago), it never quite held the same place in my main three-pen rotation for more than a month; but that is a subject for another post.

Coming back to my cleaning ritual: I wanted to bring one of my Homo Sapiens back into the three-pen rotation. I leaned towards the Florentine Hills LE. It needed a bit of cleaning, especially around the blackened sterling silver trims, and I also wanted to unscrew the nib unit and apply some silicone grease to the inner barrel.

              When I tried to unscrew the nib unit, it felt unusually tight. This isn’t entirely new to me with resin sections and nib housings. In fact, it’s a recurring complaint I have with some pens that use resin sections; the housings can become incredibly difficult to unscrew, sometimes to the point where the nib and feed start moving instead of the housing itself. I’ve experienced this with my Conid Minimalistica as well as the Regular model with a resin section - even when silicone grease has been applied to the housing threads. Interestingly, this never seems to occur with metal-section pens, of which I own a few. It could be due to a combination of factors: ink residue accumulating between the housing and section, along with the subtle micro-shrinking of resin over time. Fountain pens do not seem to be entirely immune to the effects of age.

Over time, I’ve developed a home remedy that works reasonably well. I usually start by placing the pen in an ultrasonic cleaner with filtered water and a few drops of dishwashing liquid. In fact, I would recommend that anyone with a $100+ pen consider investing in an ultrasonic cleaner. The one pictured below cost me less than $35 and works quite well for small objects, including jewellery, eyeglasses, and, of course, pens - because nothing promises better weekend relaxation quite like deep-cleaning your fountain pens.

Once it’s cleaned with a 3-minute cycle, I would try to unscrew the housing again. If that doesn’t work, I heat water to about 70°C and leave the section in the warm water for 5-7 minutes. The idea behind it: the expansion rates of the housing and the section differ slightly, which should help loosen the housing, at least in theory. I have found this second technique particularly useful for removing stubborn, sealed sections on older Omas pens, Conid Minimalistica as well as for lubricating piston seals and realigning heat-set nibs.

             Coming back to the Florentine Hills, I had just cleaned the pen and began unscrewing the nib housing, which usually comes out quite easily with my Lava edition. This time, however, something felt off. To my considerable and rather unpleasant surprise, the entire section unscrewed instead. This was particularly concerning, as it is the very part that the hook-safe cap mechanism grips onto. It took me a moment to process what had just happened and a seemingly longer moment to accept it.

It took a Reddit post, along with removing the nib from my Homo Sapiens Lava edition, to confirm that the section had indeed come off and that my beloved pen now required servicing. 

Interestingly, the housing from the Homo Sapiens Lava Bronze edition came out almost effortlessly, with virtually no stress on the nib unit. I couldn’t help but wonder why there was such a difference. It appeared that the inner sleeve in the Lava version is metal, which might explain the disparity.

I also noticed that the yellowish-purplish material dangling from the inside of the green outer sleeve of the section was quite flaky. This appeared to be the adhesive that originally bonded it to the transparent inner section. It’s worth noting that the adhesive seems to be applied only to the upper portion of the green outer sleeve, the section with the larger diameter, allowing it to attach to the transparent inner section rather than the nib housing.

A BIT OF STUBBORN OPTIMISM

My passion for repairs and restorations

As part of my hobby, I’m fairly confident when it comes to opening up electronic devices and handling minor repairs myself. With fountain pens, however, excluding nibs (I’ve sacrificed enough of those to earn some experience), I tend to be more cautious about tinkering with components that could void the warranty.

So, I reached out to Visconti, and they are still getting back to me “shortly”. To be fair, their customer service has been quite good to me in the past, whether it was changing nibs (that’s a story for another day) on my Opera Master or replacing the cap on a travelling inkwell, among other things.

Given my day job around AI monetization, I’m also aware of the pitfalls of replacing customer service with autonomous agents - rules are rules, and escalation is often needed to reach a human. So when Visconti Italy replies in perfectly polished English but without any real resolution, I can’t help but wonder if I’m corresponding with an AI email assistant. Efficient, yes. Helpful - a question mark for what we call edge cases. It's also becoming ingrained in our daily lives -  I realise that even as I write this blog post, the app is suggesting grammar and language corrections.

                  I also contacted the person heading Visconti distribution here. He didn’t seem particularly optimistic, given the age of the pen, but did promise to check with the Italy office and get back to me. In any case, out-of-warranty service costs from Visconti would likely exceed the cost of an ultrasonic cleaner, glue, and other paraphernalia combined. So, I decided to take matters into my own hands. That said, I would strongly advise caution, if you’re new to fountain pens, don’t begin your repair journey with your Homo Sapiens or your Pelikans. Start somewhere less significant, emotionally and financially.

               While researching how to fix the section myself, I realised that regular glue wouldn’t work, the gap between the green outer sleeve and transparent inner section would remain, and ink leakage would be inevitable. I do have a box of O-rings, but they proved ineffective for this purpose during testing. Eventually, I concluded that an epoxy-based adhesive would be the best fit. I had no idea what an epoxy glue is, until this point. The most commonly available option is Araldite, though mixing it can feel like a chore. This led me back to my Reddit post, where user u/officedowntime shared their experience of reattaching a metal grip section on an Opera using B7000 adhesive - a clear, epoxy-based glue often used for jewellery as well. That comment turned out to be the star of the thread.

And a sincere thank you to u/officedowntime - proof that sometimes, the best repair manuals are hidden in Reddit/FPN comments.

FINAL PROCESS

Back to the current age

So, here is the process I followed. I also cleaned and serviced my Homo Sapiens Lava a bit more thoroughly.

1. Clean the section and other parts using a few drops of dishwashing liquid in an ultrasonic cleaner. Or, if you prefer the longer route, you can stand patiently by your washbasin with running water until you’re convinced the parts are absolutely spotless.
2. Remove any remaining traces of the old yellowish adhesive from the outside of the inner transparent section, as well as from the inside of the green outer sleeve.
3. Clean off the patina on the silver trims using an earbud with a drop of a silver polishing solution such as Klear Shine. Similarly, use a bronze/brass/copper cleaner (like Happi Planet) for the Homo Sapiens Lava edition, and then wipe everything with a damp cloth.
4. Apply a small amount of Nivea Cold Cream to remove the white spots from the HS Lava pen - because apparently, HS Lava appreciates the bit of skincare.
5. Allow all parts to dry thoroughly - this may take several hours.
6. Set aside the nib, feed, and housing for at least 24 hours, keeping them safely stored in a box.
7. Once the plastic section is completely dry, apply a tiny amount of silicone grease to the outer threads (which screw into the barrel) and lightly inside the barrel threads, using a toothpick. Spread evenly with your fingers if needed.
8. Tighten the inner transparent section into the barrel until you feel the first point of resistance.
9. Now for the important part: apply a very small amount of B7000 glue to the upper, visible portion of the inner transparent section using a toothpick. Keep the application narrower than you think necessary - the glue thickens quickly, and you will almost certainly need less than you expect.
10. Repeat the process for the green outer sleeve, using around two small drops of B7000 glue and spreading it evenly.
11. As the glue thickens within seconds, press the green outer sleeve firmly onto the section for about 2 minutes (follow the instructions on the tube). Remove any excess glue that seeps out near the section ring.
12. Leave the assembled section undisturbed for 24 - 30 hours to allow proper bonding.
13. After 24 hours, apply a small amount of silicone grease to the nib housing threads. If needed, you may also add a bit of grease to the piston end using a toothpick (reaching slightly into the barrel) before reinstalling the housing. Screw the nib unit back in until you reach the first point of resistance. That’s it.
14. Use a 20 - 30× loupe to check for misaligned tines and adjust gently with your fingernail if required. You may refer to notes by Richard Binder (link in references), if absolutely necessary. Minor misalignment can happen with tight sections - especially resin ones. I had to make a small adjustment to the Florentine Hills nib; the housing is still a snug fit.

Tada! the pen is ready to write. I enthusiastically tested both pens with Aurora Blue ink (my go-to test ink), and I’m happy to report that both are filling and writing beautifully again.

Thank you for spending your time on this blog - especially if, like me, you read these things out of sheer love for the hobby. It’s always satisfying to share something that might help someone else avoid (or at least survive) a similar “oops” moment.

You can find my other pen and paraphernalia reviews here.

OTHER REFERENCES

• Reddit - Visconti HS Lava Leaking Section
• Reddit - My Post
• My Silver Cleaner
• My Bronze Cleaner
• Link to Richard Binder's notes on Nib Smoothing